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WHAT IS JACQUARD FABRIC

If you happen to see a high-quality fabric, which is particularly elaborate with complex interlacements and patterns full of different colors, you will most likely be looking at a Jacquard fabric.

The name derives, as often happens, from its inventor Joseph-Marie Jacquard, who at the beginning of the 800 created a revolutionary machine that allowed to mechanically create complex fabrics, by drastically lowering production times. Indeed, Joseph-Marie Jacquard put together various ideas and inventions of the time, but mainly inspired by the prototype of the weaving loom made by Jean Le Calabrais.

This Catanzaro weaver worked in France at the same time as Jacquard, but he did not have the same luck as him, in proposing his invention. In fact, its prototype caused quite a big fuss and the French weavers boycotted it. However, an example of it is still exhibited in the museum of arts and crafts in Paris.

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THE JACQUARD WEAVING LOOM

The invention of Jacquard was inspired by the weaving loom by Calabrese, but he managed to improve some aspects, using the inventions of Bouchon, Falcon, and Vaucanson, or the use of needles and perforated cardboards and the mechanical cylinder above the weaving loom, which allowed to automate the replacement of perforated cartons.

The real revolution that brought this machine into the textile industry was the creation of complex fabrics, through the work of only a single weaver, and the drastic reduction in the time of realization. Until then, in fact, the weaving looms were operated by hand which required the presence of at least two people: the weaver and a helper who operated the knobs to raise the heddles and let go through the threads of the plot.

In the Jacquard weaving loom, instead, the warp threads passed individually in independent heddle links, connected to a rope with a counterweight communicating with perforated cards positioned on a rotating cylinder. The holes correspond to the design to be created and allow the corresponding counterweights to fall, thus raising only the connected warp threads.

The weft threads can be inserted into the warp and thus create the design; at that point, the weaver beats the plot with a comb and advances the perforated cards, without needing someone to move the threads.

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THE JACQUARD FABRIC TODAY

With the advent of electronic frames in the last 20 years, there has been a further revolution, extending both the production speed and the width of the fabric, with the possibility of controlling up to 10,000 warp threads independently, thus giving the opportunity to realize even more complex and structured designs. Fantasies and colors of Jacquard fabrics can vary a lot and are suitable for multiple uses: their preciousness and complexity make them perfect for both furniture and clothing.

The Manifattura Tessile DINOLE® is specialized in the production of high-quality Jacquard fabrics, counting on a century of experience and on the latest machinery. Moreover, thanks to its internal Design Department, it allows the customization of fabrics according to specific customer requests, thus giving the possibility to create unique and exclusive fabrics.

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